From Persia to Pasta: A Gastronomic Odyssey through Iran and Italy

Pomegranates & Artichokes: A Culinary Journey from Iran to Italy

A Quest for Identity through Food

The debut cookbook, Pomegranates & Artichokes: A Food Journey from Iran to Italy, by Saghar Setareh, an Iranian food writer and photographer based in Rome, takes readers on a captivating culinary journey spanning two civilizations. The cookbook not only showcases over 80 delicious recipes but also explores the shared cultural heritage and connections between Iran, Italy, and the “In Between” regions of the Levant and Eastern Mediterranean.

Tracing Cultural Boundaries

Setareh’s cookbook transcends the superficial notion of exoticism often associated with both Iranian and Italian cuisine. Instead, she delves deeper, studying the historical and cultural aspects of these two civilizations through her personal lens. Through her establishment of a red thread connecting common ingredients and cooking methods, Setareh challenges the notion that Iranian and Italian cuisines are inherently different. She highlights the similarities and shared traditions that have shaped the culinary landscape of the Mediterranean and Middle East.

A Journey of Stuffed Vegetables

Stuffed vegetables play a significant role in Setareh’s exploration of shared culinary connections. Known by various names such as dolmeh, dolma, mehshi, gemista, and ripieni, these recipes reflect the undeniable influence and fusion of flavors across the vast region. Setareh includes recipes for stuffed artichokes, bell peppers, and tomatoes, each showcasing distinctive ingredients and cooking techniques from Iran, Italy, and the surrounding regions.

For instance, the Sicilian-style stuffed artichokes feature a filling made with breadcrumbs, pine nuts, raisins, and anchovy fillets. Another recipe embraces Greek-inspired flavors by using rice, spring onions, tomato paste, and ground cinnamon to create a meat-free filling for bell peppers. Setareh also introduces the Italian favorite, pomodori al riso, which consists of stuffed tomatoes with rice, best served chilled.

The Role of Rice

Rice, a global staple, is prominently featured in Setareh’s cookbook. She explores the diverse ways in which rice is prepared and enjoyed in different regions. Setareh showcases the crunchy Iranian jeweled rice, which incorporates pomegranate seeds and adds a vibrant burst of flavor to the dish. Another notable rice recipe is the Palestinian maqluba, an upside-down rice bake enriched with seasonal vegetables.

Setareh further traces the journey of rice to Italy, brought by the Arabs during the Middle Ages. Initially regarded as an exotic ingredient in Italy, rice eventually gained popularity, becoming a fundamental element of refined risottos in the north of the country and elaborate sartùs in the south. The sartù, a rice timbale from Naples, combines rice with a rich ragù made with porcini mushrooms, pancetta, beef, puréed tomatoes, and sweet Marsala wine. Setareh describes this dish as something worthy of a medieval painting.

Foreshadowing Resistance and Immigration

Setareh draws attention to the resistance new foods often face when introduced to different cultures. She highlights the historical apprehension towards ingredients such as apples, eggplants, and bell peppers, which originated from the New World. These foods were initially considered unappealing in Europe during the Middle Ages. For example, eggplants were regarded as vulgar and vile before becoming a staple in Italian cuisine.

Setareh’s personal experience as an immigrant from Iran to Italy in 2007 resonates throughout the cookbook. She emphasizes the parallel between the migration of food and the movement of people. Just as ingredients evolve and become incorporated into local cuisines, Setareh asserts that cultural boundaries and borders do not confine a culture’s essence. As an immigrant, she embraces the opportunity to connect with different places and make them her own.

A Culinary Roadmap Across Borders

Saghar Setareh’s Pomegranates & Artichokes represents more than just a cookbook; it presents a roadmap for cultural and culinary exploration. By showcasing the interconnectedness of Iranian and Italian cuisines, as well as the influences from surrounding regions, Setareh invites readers to embrace the diversity and commonality that food provides. Through sharing her personal journey and the fusion of flavors she has encountered along the way, Setareh encourages individuals to appreciate the rich heritage found within our shared culinary traditions.